The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency - Alexander McCall Smith
This is the first of a lovely series of books about the Miss Marple of Botswana. Very enjoyable, feel good and giving you a hint of African life and philosophies. We've read the first three books of the series and liked them all.
Shantaram - Gregory David Roberts
Impossible to put down! Compelling story about an Australian who escaped prison and ends up in India. Living with the people in India and learning several languages. Living and fighting alongside the Mujaheddin in Afghanistan.
Shackelton's Forgotten Men - Lennard Bickel
The amazing story of the group of explorers responsible for laying down the supply depots for Ernest Shackleton's 1915 attempt to cross Antarctica. Very topical, too.
America - Jon Stewart
Not just funny, sarcastic and scathing, but also educational and entertaining account of American history. We enjoyed the audio version on our drive upto Alaska.
Cryptonomicon - Neal Stephenson
A high-tech (focusing on cryptography) thriller set in WWII and the present. Well-written, funny and engaging.
Up Country by Nelson DeMille
A political thriller set in Vietnam. We enjoyed reading a novel in which the action takes place in many of the locations we visited in 2003. Also interesting to read about these locations from the perspective of a Vietnam vet - not something we got much of while we were in the country.
Five Quarters of the Orange - Joanne Harris
A dark story by the author of Chocolat about a family in France during the German occupation in WWII with the author's trademark inclusion of food and recipes interwoven into the story.
Fateful Harvest by Duff Wilson
The incredible true story of the discovery in a small Washington town that commercial fertilizer companies were (and still are) recycling and re-selling toxic industrial wastes (cadmium, lead , arsenic etc.) as fertilizer.
Freakonomics by Steven D. Levitt and Stephen J. Dubner
The cover says "prepared to be dazzled"...that's correct! Levitt is an economist who looks at everyday issues from a unique viewpoint. He explains, for example, how the Roe v. Wade (the legal right to an abortion) decision is the real cause of the decrease in crime in America and why some school teachers choose to cheat on state exams for their students.
Various books on running, including: The Lore of Running by Tim Noakes and Marathon: You Can Do It by Jeff Galloway
Michiel is determined to run the marathon in Antarctica this year so he's preparing himself physically and mentally.
As you can tell, we've had lots of time to read. The weather has been gray and rainy and we're hanging out in Hope doing some house- and dog-sitting, so we've worked our way through all the books we can get our hands on. We are, however, saving the other Antarctica-related books we've received as gifts (THANKS!) for the long flights down to the ice.
This blog is an on-going travelogue created by Michiel and Sheri. Our journey started on April 1, 2005 in Amsterdam and has taken us to Alaska, France and Antarctica and back with many stops along the way. (disclaimer: all opinions and stories are our own, we do not in any way pretend to represent the United States Antarctic Program or NSF, nor Lindblad or National Geographic
Tuesday, September 13, 2005
Thursday, September 01, 2005
More wildlife encounters
On the evening we returned to Hope from the Pet Emergency clinic in Anchorage, we had another visit (nearly nightly) from our local black bear. The bear seems to be a pre-teen (based on its size) and is still quite wary of dogs and humans (which is a good thing). He is busy eating as many berries as he can stuff himself with before winter comes and seems particularly fond of the devil's club berries that surround our landlady's property. Now that we are also house-sitting (thus, actually living in the big house and using the outdoor hot tub (woo hoo!)), we can get very good views of the wild area that she calls "backyard" and the critters that wander through.

This time, however, he preferred the front of the house and sniffing around the driveway. He allowed us to watch him for a very long time.
A few days later, Michiel and I were going to do a hike in the Anchorage area, but were running short on time. We opted to drive towards home, stopping at a hike along the Turnagain Arm. I mentioned to Michiel that we hadn't seen any bull moose this year.
The McHugh Creek hike is a pretty steep climb into the forests overlooking the Arm of the Cook Inlet below. We climbed in a steady rain up to a common stopping place at Table Rock for a sweeping vista. As we decended off the plateau to continue onto the trail that would take us higher into the Chugach Mountains, we nearly ran smack into not one but TWO bull moose eating and occasionally butting their huge racks against each other.
We quickly snapped a few photos after getting to a safer location and left them to their business. Since the trail onwards was blocked, we decided to turn back towards the parking area, but first had to make it past the cow moose, who had snorted to make her presence known.
A few days later, we were treated to a sighting of the beluga whales that travel up Turnagain Arm at the beginning and end of the summer. The group of 20 or more white (adults) and gray whales glided gracefully through the water while groups of tourists and locals pulled their cars over on the highway to catch a glimpse.
This time, however, he preferred the front of the house and sniffing around the driveway. He allowed us to watch him for a very long time.
A few days later, Michiel and I were going to do a hike in the Anchorage area, but were running short on time. We opted to drive towards home, stopping at a hike along the Turnagain Arm. I mentioned to Michiel that we hadn't seen any bull moose this year.
The McHugh Creek hike is a pretty steep climb into the forests overlooking the Arm of the Cook Inlet below. We climbed in a steady rain up to a common stopping place at Table Rock for a sweeping vista. As we decended off the plateau to continue onto the trail that would take us higher into the Chugach Mountains, we nearly ran smack into not one but TWO bull moose eating and occasionally butting their huge racks against each other.
We quickly snapped a few photos after getting to a safer location and left them to their business. Since the trail onwards was blocked, we decided to turn back towards the parking area, but first had to make it past the cow moose, who had snorted to make her presence known.A few days later, we were treated to a sighting of the beluga whales that travel up Turnagain Arm at the beginning and end of the summer. The group of 20 or more white (adults) and gray whales glided gracefully through the water while groups of tourists and locals pulled their cars over on the highway to catch a glimpse.
Wednesday, August 31, 2005
Recreating?
Our recreation time in Hope always includes hiking on the various trails. If we are dog-sitting Cooper, we bring him along and try to let him off the leash for a while. Big mistake! During our last trip up the Bear Creek Trail, Cooper discovered the delicacy that is porcupine (stekelvarken). Michiel ran him back home with half a face full of quills and we later had to drive him to the Pet Emergency clinic in Anchorage (1.5 hours away).
The vet put him under (narcose) and removed the quills while we went out for a pizza. He also gave him enough morphine to make him basically comatose for the ride home, the transport from car to house and into the following day.
Over the next two days, we discovered that more of the quills had worked their way through his fur/skin/muscles and Michiel held him down while I yanked them out with needle-nose pliers. Quills are evil things - barbed on one end and about 2 inches long.
All is well now and Cooper is back to chasing black bears up trees.

The vet put him under (narcose) and removed the quills while we went out for a pizza. He also gave him enough morphine to make him basically comatose for the ride home, the transport from car to house and into the following day.
Over the next two days, we discovered that more of the quills had worked their way through his fur/skin/muscles and Michiel held him down while I yanked them out with needle-nose pliers. Quills are evil things - barbed on one end and about 2 inches long.
All is well now and Cooper is back to chasing black bears up trees.
Thursday, August 25, 2005
End of the Season
The tour season ended fairly early this year as we didn't have any bookings for the last week of August. It was just as well, really, because the weather turned gray and rainy (as is typical for late summer).
I had five tours in all - two tours that had little physical activity, which are geared towards those who might otherwise do a cruise but wanted a small group, van tour type experience. For me, these tours are tough because they require lots of driving and eating and very little exercise. I end up the week feeling fat and lazy. However, these tours do end up with a wonderful boat tour in Seward. I normally don't go on the tours, but I had a nice group and decided I'd go along. I was thrilled that I did because we saw puffins, sea otters, Steller sea lions and cormorants (aalscholvers) and we were surrounded at one point in the trip by a whole pod of orcas. We also had a portion of the trip in which we had at least 4 humpback whales (bultrug walvissen) in sight. One of them was playing by flapping its tail against the surface of the water. Excellent!
I also led two day hiker tours, which include 5 days of camping and 1 to 5 hour hikes each day. One of the trips (with Michiel) was great and the other was awful (bad weather and a difficult group, who bonded well with each other, but treated me like a servant. The highlight of THAT trip was getting stuck at a road construction stop and talking to a father and son from the Netherlands (Drenthe).)
The 5th trip was a new 7-day itinerary that included 4 days of camping. The weather was incredible! Hot, clear and sunny in all parts of the state. I couldn't believe that we could see every single mountain, including Denali, throughout the week. We even breakfasted at our campsite while watching the colors of Denali change from pink to white.
Now that the season is over, Michiel and I are enjoying recreational time in Hope and soon, we'll start packing and preparing for our ice departures.
I had five tours in all - two tours that had little physical activity, which are geared towards those who might otherwise do a cruise but wanted a small group, van tour type experience. For me, these tours are tough because they require lots of driving and eating and very little exercise. I end up the week feeling fat and lazy. However, these tours do end up with a wonderful boat tour in Seward. I normally don't go on the tours, but I had a nice group and decided I'd go along. I was thrilled that I did because we saw puffins, sea otters, Steller sea lions and cormorants (aalscholvers) and we were surrounded at one point in the trip by a whole pod of orcas. We also had a portion of the trip in which we had at least 4 humpback whales (bultrug walvissen) in sight. One of them was playing by flapping its tail against the surface of the water. Excellent!
I also led two day hiker tours, which include 5 days of camping and 1 to 5 hour hikes each day. One of the trips (with Michiel) was great and the other was awful (bad weather and a difficult group, who bonded well with each other, but treated me like a servant. The highlight of THAT trip was getting stuck at a road construction stop and talking to a father and son from the Netherlands (Drenthe).)
The 5th trip was a new 7-day itinerary that included 4 days of camping. The weather was incredible! Hot, clear and sunny in all parts of the state. I couldn't believe that we could see every single mountain, including Denali, throughout the week. We even breakfasted at our campsite while watching the colors of Denali change from pink to white.
Now that the season is over, Michiel and I are enjoying recreational time in Hope and soon, we'll start packing and preparing for our ice departures.
Thursday, August 11, 2005
Antarctic jobs!!!!!
Hurray, we have jobs at Antarctica. Our time and money that we invested to reach this goal finally paid off. No more worrying about what would happen if only one of us got an offer, or where to go / what to do if we wouldn't be able to get jobs.
Sheri is going to work for ATO (Antarctic Terminal Operations) and is going to be involved with passenger tracking, loading, etc. Michiel will be working in the Plumbing Warehouse as a Materials Person.
I will be leaving on the 1st of October for New Zealand and Sheri will follow on the 6th.
Sheri is going to work for ATO (Antarctic Terminal Operations) and is going to be involved with passenger tracking, loading, etc. Michiel will be working in the Plumbing Warehouse as a Materials Person.
I will be leaving on the 1st of October for New Zealand and Sheri will follow on the 6th.
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