More vistors

The last couple of weeks have been very boat-intensive. Apart from our supply ship visiting, we also had the Point Sur. The NSF used this small vessel to see if it was suitable for doing research in the region; small and nimble and less costly than the LMG. Unfortunately also not ice reinforced, so the plan of dropping a group of geologists off at a field camp was foiled by too much ice. The geologists ended up staying in Palmer while we were already at maximum capacity.

Point Sur at the pier.

The other goal of getting the "whale hunters" group to their prey was very successful; they were able to gather a lot of data on predominantly Humpback and Minke whales. They use a couple of different tags that allow them to track the animals and learn about their habits. The 2 science lectures that they gave were very interesting and had beautiful pictures.

Quixote

Another vessel that brought us a visit was the Quixote, a 12 meter small steel hull ship that was built by 1 of the 4 people sailing it. They spent a couple of hours on station, received a tour and reciprocated by giving us a tour on their yacht. They had been sailing for 30 days now and had visited a lot of different station. Makes me realize how little we see of the continent. Ah well, at least we get to see a little bit of it.

This week's visit of the Ushuaia also marked the last cruise ship of the season to come and visit Palmer Station. One last time did we all get are tasks as Tour Guides, Store Helpers and Meet and Greeters.

Our cruise ship guests enjoying our hospitality and famous brownies.

Ushuaia with iceberg.

The latest bunch of visitors are a bunch of icebergs that are coming closer and closer to our station. Visually this is great because it changes the landscape a bit and now we don't have to take a zodiac to go and watch them up close. Of course, if they keep on coming they could make it pretty hard for the next LMG to come to port. The next LMG is a crucial one, because it is the one that will take us away.
:-)

To show scale.

To show the beauty.

Treaty Inspection

Regular readers of our blog know by now that Antarctica is protected by the Antarctic Treaty System. It came into force on June 23, 1961 by the signatures of the 12 countries that were active on the continent at that time and by now has now grown to be a list of 49 countries.

One of the clauses in the Treaty ensures that members can inspect each other's stations and operations at any time to see if the rules are being followed. So it came to be that we were informed half a day in advance that Palmer was going to get a visit from the British HMS Protector bringing with it an international delegation of inspectors. And to my surprise, one them being a Dutch representative.
The Netherlands has been a member since 1967 and became a voting member in 1990. I never realized it, but the Netherlands has an equivalent to the National Science Foundation which is called the Nederlandse Organisatie voor Wetenschappelijk Onderzoek or NWO which is part of the Nederlands Polair Programma. We don't have our own station, but as of this year we have a number of labs stationed at the British station Rothera. Link in English    Link in Dutch
 
The station manager provided the inspection team with the documents and drawings they requested, after which they did a tour of the station and spoke to some members of our Facilities crew and Waste Management. I think that overall they were quite impressed with our facilities and advanced labs, especially compared to some of the stations that they visited earlier. Some of them  apparently resembled no more than just a presence on the continent than a place where science was being conducted. They had already visited some 10 stations before coming here and had several more planned for the remainder of their journey,  but when a French yacht arrived and anchored near our station, they too were treated to an inspection to see if all their permits and equipment were in order.
Busy people those inspectors.

The HMS Protector.

The French yacht being inspected.

Visitor from outer space

The last boat that came to Palmer not only brought us freshies and new Scientists, but also some high level managers, one of which came from outer space. Actually, I should say that he was a former astronaut. Scott Parazynski is the Medical Director for the US Antarctic Program. If you look at his wikipedia page, you'll see that he has done 5 space shuttle flights and 7 space walks, as well as climbing Mount Everest and some other stuff.

While he was here, he gave 2 presentations. The first one was about a subject that is near and (maybe) dear to all of us who work in the Antarctic Program because it dealt with the medical qualification (PQ) process that we have to deal with before being allowed to come here. Scott explained about the transition process (after taking over from previous contractor; Raytheon) and what they had to do to be able to deal with the very short time frame that they were given (basically hiring a bunch of temp working, taking lots of work home with him, making a strict prioritization of who needs to PQ first because their plane is leaving and PQ'ing people as they were getting on the plane). He has also been inviting feedback from us about the PQ process as a step to improving the whole process.

In Scott's opinion the winning quote from that feedback was; "You people must have put the fax machine right above the shredder, because I have had to fax my forms several times to you." He also showed us the process from their point of view. The winner there was one person who after being told that a certain form was missing proceeded to fax everything several times again except for the missing form. Then there are all the people who forgot that the back side of the forms also needs to be filled out. On average a medical file requires looking at a couple of times, but there were instances where that number climbed to 10 because of omissions as mentioned above.

The second of his talks was about his NASA career and that was great to listen to. Unfortunately he had not really counted on doing this, so he did not have the cool video clips that would normally be in his talks. He made up for that by allowing us plenty of questions at the end. He also said that he had the time of his life during this visit in Antarctica (really, after having been in space? ) and enjoyed our hospitality very much.

I'm shaking hands with an astronaut.

Tourist season

Saluting the Dutch flag.

Today the Dutch flag was flying at Palmer Station. This was not because of me, but because the yacht Sarah W. Vorwerk paid us a visit. When we have vessels visiting us, it is customary to raise the flag of the country (of vessel registration or in this case the Captain's home country) below the flag of the United States.

The Vorwerk is a vessel that can take up to 8 paying passengers to explore the Antarctic and other regions (see http://www.sarahvorwerk.net/en/expeditions). The owner happens to be Dutch, so I had the opportunity to speak my mother tongue again and discover that it has become rusty.

December and January is tourist season in which we notice the increased number of vessels that show up on our "AIS" system that plots nearby vessels on a map for us. As part of our outreach efforts, the National Science Foundation allows a certain number of visits to the station. The reasoning is that everything here is paid for by the American tax payer and they should be able to see what is done with that money.

A second vessel that visited us was the National Geographic Explorer from Linblad Expeditions. ( see their website ) Before the masses (actually, we have to call them "guests" ) arrive on station, the Station Manager and the Lab Manager go on board the ship to give a presentation about Palmer Station and our work here.


The station manager giving his presentation. The people
that are not looking at him are watching the slides on
the screens.



The NGE at anchor in Arthur Harbor

 On days when cruise ships come to town, all of us get assigned different jobs. I helped out in the shop assisting people with their apparel buying. The passengers are brought in groups of 10 by my colleagues who volunteered as tour guides. Outside the shop we hung all the available clothing items for the dual purpose of giving them the opportunity to make a choice and giving them something to do while waiting outside the shop.  After they are done in the shop, they continue their tour around the station and end in the galley, where they are treated to tea and coffee and our famous brownies and get a chance to speak to some of the locals and some of the scientists.

Later in the evening the we get the opportunity to go on board of the ship; in exchange for some free drinks they get to ask us as many questions as they like. The evening ends with the ship's crew coming over to our bar for some drinks and relaxation away from their passengers. The crew does not get a whole lot of free time on board and even when the vessel is in port at Ushuaia ( Argentina ) the turnaround time is so short that there is not much time to unwind. In the past these visits to our bar have led to some pretty memorable nights (so I've been told), but this time everything stayed rather decent.Some more Dutch was spoken since amongst the Croatian, Slovenian, Swedish and American crew was also a Dutch guy.

A Trip to the McMurdo Aquarium

Each season, there are several science groups in McMurdo studying the fauna of our region.  These studies focus on seals, penguins and whales and also encompass several long-running projects researching life in the ocean below the surface of the ice.  The sea water here is about -1.6 degrees C /28 F.  In order to collect specimens for study, the scientists and their graduate assistants either employ the services of a professional diver (see post with video from ocean videographer, Henry Kaiser, here) or they go fishing.

Fish groups travel over the sea ice in a tracked vehicle, called a Pisten Bully, to their fishing hole.  These fishing holes are often created using a long drill (manually-operated) with a 3-foot long flight.  Sometimes, a much larger hole is cut with a giant, mechanized drill and a small hut is placed over it for the warmth and wind protection for the science group and divers. My friend, Dan, is a fish scientist and his blog postings will give you a very good idea of what fishing in Antarctica is like:  http://hassumaniantarctica.blogspot.com/2011/10/saturday-october-22-2011.html

Fishing groups and divers bring their catch back to the aquarium for further study.  The community gets to look at these creatures during the weekly tour of the Crary Lab or, for those of us lucky enough to play music with a fish scientist....one evening after work.  Here are some pictures from the touch tank and from the fish tanks.



Various fish and stars





Brittle star



Lice



 

Crinoid





Antarctic Toothfish - Mawsoni - Antarctic Cod - Chilean Sea Bass - whatever you call it, it is overfished



This one is 85 pounds/39 kilos - a small one.  The biggest adult toothfish can reach 330 pounds/150 kilos.



Octopus

The octopus isn't the subject of its own study but it was very cool to see.  Here the scientist is giving us an up-close view.  Apparently, octopi are very intelligent.  Last year, the octopus they were keeping in the aquarium found a way to get out of its tank, walk across the lab and hop into the touch tank for a snack.  The night janitor found him on the floor on his way back to his tank.  this year, they have fashioned a heavy lid for the octopus tank.

If you want to learn more about the Antarctic Toothfish/Chilean Sea Bass/Dissostichus mawsoni, please take a look at the Last Ocean website or watch the Last Ocean documentary.